The wrong way to wear tights

There’s Conservative Party in-fighting and then there is the war waged over tights. Some see them as an indispensable part of their winter wardrobe; others consider them frumpy crotch-droopers. For years, the fashion world allied with tight-phobes, and editors would stride through a polar vortex in bare legs rather than pull on a pair of 20 denier.

Now that all seems ridiculous - not least because it was an idea foisted upon us by the Anna Wintour crowd, all of whom have chauffeurs. “The pandemic made the industry see sense,” says Katherine Homuth, the founder and inventor of Sheertex, a brand that makes unbreakable tights from the same material as bullet-proof vests. “I live in Canada where there’s no possibility of bare legs in winter.” 

Designers finally got the practical memo - and read at least half of it. While opaques are still banished to the fashion wilderness, sheer and print hosiery is firmly in the spotlight. In fact, tights was the one look uniting diverse collections from Balenciaga, Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent.

Personally, I feel vindicated. I stayed loyal when their approval rating was below Liz Truss’s - but I did learn a few rules along the way: no nude or tan styles, no trainers, no wrinkly opaques with ballet flats and no tights until mid-October (because once they’re on, they’re not coming off for months). In celebration of passing this significant date, here is some more hosiery how-to. 

Buy the sheerest style 

This year, it’s all about wearing boots, ballet flats and heels with tights that are 15, 20 or 30 denier max. “Sheer tights are more flattering,” says stylist Arabella Greenhill. “Thick, heavy styles can look very dense whereas thinner tights are like an extra texture.” If you feel cold just thinking about striding into winter with this little amount of fabric on your legs, remember heavy boots and knit skirts are also in fashion.

Opaques can be trendy

Opaques, flat shoes and sensible skirts will always have a whiff of a police officer about it, but thick tights and minis are eternal - because 100 denier or wool hosiery looks cosy, while miniskirts are slightly daring. If high hemlines aren’t for you, wear opaques with knee or calf-high boots and midi-length silk skirts.

Sheer tights with black stilettos for Christmas

As a style, it’s always been byword for sex appeal. It’s also an easy one to pull off with almost any length of skirt. “Legs are the number one feature for parties this year,” says stylist Annabel Hodin. “Fabulous tights, clean silhouettes and great shoes. What could be better?”

Print and pattern tights are in

Speaking of fabulous tights - even in the City, plain hosiery is being swapped for jazzier styles. “The rules on tights have relaxed a lot,” says Ilka Dunn, a stylist specialising in corporate dressing. “There’s now a playfulness that wasn’t there before.” This includes fishnets (the Pretty Woman look is avoidable if worn with below-the-knee skirts) and all sorts of prints. “I love the idea of polka dot tights,” says Telegraph’s Lisa Armstrong, “so long as they’re the central focus and you’re wearing black head to toe.”

Splash out on quality 

In a cost-of-living crisis, price is everything - but more expensive tights might make financial sense if supermarket specials ladder almost immediately. Sheertex claims their tights last for up to 100 wears and Homuth says we need to start thinking of hosiery like we do  underwear - as pieces worn for years and thrown in the washing machine (cheaper tights should be hand washed to avoid bobbling). 

Tights size is not clothing size

There are few things less pleasant than a saggy pair of tights. Avoid the dreaded crotch hammock by going one size larger - I’m 5’9 and a size 10 but since I started buying an extra large, my tights-wearing life has improved immeasurably.  

Which are the right pair for you?

Best for curvy: Body sensor tights, £2.67, Marks & Spencer

Best opaques: The Eighty, £30, Heist

Best glossy deniers: The bold, £30, Hedoine

Best value: Ultra glossy tights, £5, Boots

Best high end: Rip-resist tights, £37, Sheertex

View the latest Marks & Spencer deals

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